OMG

Ok, time for a short shitty story. I kooked it last Tuesday surfing south jetty. I got it the day before firing and no one surfed because they thought it was small. I thought I might get some barrels Tuesday morning so I headed down early to catch the offshore flow. I got condos kinda fun. Super crowded at the jetty so I paddled down the beach 100 yards and surfed literally by myself. Funny how that works... You see a guy get a fun wave so you immediately think if you surf right by him you will get an equal amount of fun waves. I can't f*cking stand it when people do that. So I paddled down the beach and surfed not as great of a wave, but by myself. I got out, ate lunch, then paddled back out only to get 2 waves before 50% of Brazil paddled out and gave no respect in the lineup. I took off on a nice looking left with a wedgey opportunity, went to do a backside snap, front foot came off, wave pushed board to me so I covered my head. Rail hit wrist. Fractured my write ulna (outer bone). So I'm out of the water for a few weeks.

I was going to see my girlfriend yesterday at her work. I was pulling down Surfrider Way, and saw the water was glassy. I thought I would give it a look just for the calming manner the ocean can have on someone that can't surf. I pull down to north side of the pier to find 3 guys out and it's the best I've seen Oceanside all 2010, NO JOKE. I call Will and the Chemistry guys and tell them to stop working and come surf immediately. I walk on the pier and stand in the rain for about 15 minutes just watching top to bottom peaks come in all over. Oceanside was trying to mimic Blacks yesterday, and doing a damn good job. I went and grabbed lunch (to go), saw the girl at her work, then drove back to the pier to watch incredible waves. Jason Bennett got some sick ones. The combo pic with the bw barrel shot on the left is Jason. The rest are some waves that looked kind of fun. So it's not a short story. I'm trying to get my motion back in my wrist.

Shot 1- Cheyne Magnusson
Shot 5- Jason Bennett