OMG

Ok, time for a short shitty story. I kooked it last Tuesday surfing south jetty. I got it the day before firing and no one surfed because they thought it was small. I thought I might get some barrels Tuesday morning so I headed down early to catch the offshore flow. I got condos kinda fun. Super crowded at the jetty so I paddled down the beach 100 yards and surfed literally by myself. Funny how that works... You see a guy get a fun wave so you immediately think if you surf right by him you will get an equal amount of fun waves. I can't f*cking stand it when people do that. So I paddled down the beach and surfed not as great of a wave, but by myself. I got out, ate lunch, then paddled back out only to get 2 waves before 50% of Brazil paddled out and gave no respect in the lineup. I took off on a nice looking left with a wedgey opportunity, went to do a backside snap, front foot came off, wave pushed board to me so I covered my head. Rail hit wrist. Fractured my write ulna (outer bone). So I'm out of the water for a few weeks.

I was going to see my girlfriend yesterday at her work. I was pulling down Surfrider Way, and saw the water was glassy. I thought I would give it a look just for the calming manner the ocean can have on someone that can't surf. I pull down to north side of the pier to find 3 guys out and it's the best I've seen Oceanside all 2010, NO JOKE. I call Will and the Chemistry guys and tell them to stop working and come surf immediately. I walk on the pier and stand in the rain for about 15 minutes just watching top to bottom peaks come in all over. Oceanside was trying to mimic Blacks yesterday, and doing a damn good job. I went and grabbed lunch (to go), saw the girl at her work, then drove back to the pier to watch incredible waves. Jason Bennett got some sick ones. The combo pic with the bw barrel shot on the left is Jason. The rest are some waves that looked kind of fun. So it's not a short story. I'm trying to get my motion back in my wrist.

Shot 1- Cheyne Magnusson
Shot 5- Jason Bennett

lOve

I bought my new strobe kit and have been psyching on shooting more film. I haven't shot anything in months except a few rolls here and there so I bought some ISO 50,100,400,3200. PSYCCCCHING

Jason Bennett - Chemistry Surfboards

I haven't posted in awhile so before I get to the post, let me tell you that I've been shooting a lot of 35mm film lately. I haven't shot digital in months and I've been experimenting with a lot of different film on the shelves. I'll fill you in more on that later. My posts will start up again real soon.

Now, I strongly feel that much credit is due to many parties in this post (or not). First, Chemistry Surfboards because this post is about them. Photographers Cole Barash, Garrett Cortese, and Jimmy Fontaine, because they are 3 photographers that are good friends of mine and I look up to them for inspiration and creativity. I feel their work is something that I try and mimic in certain ways. They have all helped me in one way or another.

Last week I was coming up from work in San Diego and thought I would stop by the Chemistry shop. Hanging at Chemistry happens to be one of my favorite ways to kill time. The company appeals to myself and many others for a few solid reasons.

1- A few of my good friends work there. Chemistry is made up from a small collective of creative individuals, Jason Bennett being the mastermind of it all.
2- Chemistry is artistic by all means. Surfing is an art, no matter which side of the line you argue. Over the years it's been proven that surfing has been, is, and always will be artistic. The crew at Chemistry provides that appealing medium in everything they do whether it's board shapes, after hour parties (2010 Chem party), or paintings and music making.

3- This is the most important thing. Handshaped boards built by shapers that rip. It's almost imperative that your shaper knows how to stand up on a wave and go down the line. Well my shaper (Jason Bennett) has gotten magazine covers, sections in videos (J Clip), and to say he rips is an understatement.

So... back to stopping by Chemistry. Like always, I didn't give give Jason or Will heads up that I was stopping by. I stepped through the front door to see Jason at the front counter talking with Will about board orders, surf video playing on the tv, and a few new painted sticks in the show room. I figured the element of surprise would be the best way to get Jason in his element, shaping. He went back in the shaping room and I got some gear set up and started shooting the show room. I was psyched to see new tee designs (by Chem artist Scott Seiver). Will threw me a new XL Chem tee my way, THANKS WILL! So if you haven't gotten all your Christmas goodies yet, stop by the Chem shop and grab a new tee, they also have womens available.

I then approached Jason's shaping room. I setup my strobe kit in there and he kept shaping like I was nowhere in sight. I'm thinking perfect, I can get Jason in his element, shaping. I'm not sure the process of shaping a board, but I imagine he was in there for sometime before I even arrived at Chemistry. I shot some photos, waited, shot some more, waited, then shot some more. I was waiting for the signature on the bottom of the board. He then asked me if I was ready to shoot the signature. I told him to sign away, and like that, the artists canvas was completed (excluding glassing and sanding). I then stepped out of the room and shot a couple of Cody packaging some boards up to ship. It was an entire order for one Japanese guy. Must be nice.

I packed up my stuff, drank my OJ that Tommy got for me at Z Mart, then headed home. Next time you surf, take the time to appreciate the creation you are riding. Lots of time and creative energy goes into that, by more than one person. Big thanks to Jason, Will, Scott, and everyone else at Chemistry that makes surfing fun for me and YOU! Keeping the art flowing. Be sure to check out Chemistry Surfboards for your next shape, or even some shop goodies.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Rusty

Jason Bennett of Chemistry Surfboards, in his element.

Tools

An artists mark

Cody prepping a happy customers shipment.

The man with the master plan, offering you quality shapes.