Aye grande muchos!!!

Johny D and I checked a few spots this morning. Salt Creek was good, Oceanside was A-framing but had too much tide, and the reefs in Encinitas were too crowded. We decided Blacks was the call. We pull up and there are only a few cars in the parking lot which means 1 of 2 things; it's either too big for people to surf, or it's shitty. Well it was actually neither of those. The sets were averaging about 12 feet on the faces. All the peaks were working, and with the tide going out it was only getting more hollow. We suit up, run down the goat trail, stretch, say a prayer and paddle out. John get's an overhead right to warm up followed by a left wedge at south peak. I paddle deeper than the other 4 guys by us and wait a little further outside. After 15 minutes or so, I see a bomb on the horizon and I start to paddle. John and the 3 others are paddling out in the channel. Probably close to 15' on the face, this thing breaks about 20 feet in front of me. I start to duckdive as deep as possible and I feel my board get ripped out of my hands. I feel the fishing string of a leash snap and I do the tumble. I come up and my hand shaped Will Scovel 6'3 is getting washed in. I swim to the inside to see half my board floating. I go in, without catching 1 wave, and start my upset walk back to the trail. I change, grab my camera, and shoot a few waves.